FELINE LEUKAEMIA VIRUS
What is feline leukaemia virus?
Feline leukaemia virus (FeLV) is an important viral infection of cats, being a cause of illness and death. Infection is more common in colonies of cats where there is close contact between individuals.

What disease does the virus cause?
As its name implies, FeLV is able to cause neoplasia (‘cancer’) of the white blood cells (‘leukaemia’), but in addition the virus also causes the development of solid tumours (lymphomas) at various sites in the body.

Although the development of neoplasia/cancer is one common outcome in a cat infected with FeLV, more often other diseases develop. In many cats, FeLV infection results in a profound suppression of the immune system leading to increased susceptibility to a wide range of secondary infections that would not cause a problem in normal healthy cats. A variety of clinical signs of chronic and/or recurrent disease develop in these cats, and there may be a progressive deterioration in their condition over time.

Another common occurrence in FeLV-infected cats is the development of a profound and life-threatening anaemia. A variety of other FeLV-related diseases are also seen on occasions including abortion, severe enteritis (causing diarrhoea), neurological (nervous) signs, and ocular (eye) disease.

Through a variety of different ways, persistent infection with FeLV is thus an important disease of cats. It is frequently a fatal disease, and studies have shown that around 80-90% of persistently FeLV-infected cats will die within 3 1/2 years of the diagnosis being made.

How is the virus transmitted?
The virus is fragile and cannot survive longer than a few hours outside the cat in the environment, so direct contact between cats is the way in which infection is transmitted. A cat that is permanently infected with FeLV sheds a large quantity of the virus in saliva, as well as other body secretions and excretions such as urine and faeces. However, FeLV is not a highly contagious virus, and so it generally takes a prolonged period of close contact between cats, involving activities such as mutual grooming, and sharing of litter trays and food bowls for sufficient exposure to the virus to allow transmission to a susceptible cat.

Another potential source of infection is when a queen who is infected with FeLV is mated and gives birth to a litter of kittens. In this situation all the kittens will be born infected with the virus. However, this is uncommon as infection with FeLV frequently causes a queen to become infertile or results in pre-natal death of the kittens with abortion or resorption of the foetuses.

What happens when a cat is exposed to FeLV?
Not all cats exposed to FeLV will develop persistent infections and thus go on to develop FeLV-related diseases. Many cats are able to mount an immune response to the virus which is ultimately successful in eliminating the virus from the body. However these FeLV-recovered cats will sometimes experience a transient infection with the virus, and there may be a period of several weeks or months during which the virus remains dormant in the body (‘latent infections’) while the immune response is finally eliminating it completely.

Although cats even transiently infected with FeLV can sometimes subsequently develop disease as a result of this infection, it is only cats that are persistently infected with FeLV that are at a high risk of developing FeLV-related disease. Furthermore, it is the permanently infected cats that are responsible for the transmission of FeLV to other cats.

How can FeLV infection be diagnosed?
Diagnosis of FeLV infection is relatively simple. A rapid blood test can be performed which is able to detect proteins of the FeLV virus in the blood of an infected cat. In general this blood test is very reliable although occasionally a misleading result can be obtained. In some situations it may therefore be necessary to confirm infection with the virus through further blood testing at a specialist laboratory where more sophisticated tests are available.

Additionally, some cats with a transient FeLV infection will be transiently positive on the blood test, and therefore a second test performed around 8-12 weeks after the first test may be required to confirm persistent infection.

Is there any treatment for FeLV infection?
There is currently no specific treatment for FeLV infected cats (no treatment that is able to eliminate the virus from the body). However, although most FeLV-infected cats will eventually die of their infection (or have to be euthanased), many will respond to symptomatic treatment, at least for a period of time. For example, if FeLV is causing disease in an individual through immunosuppression and the development of secondary infections, these other concurrent diseases may be treatable leading to improvement of the clinical signs.

How can infection be prevented?
Vaccines are now available to protect cats against FeLV infection and their use is recommended in any cat that has contact with other potentially infected cats. As with other vaccines, an initial course of two injections is required, and annual boosters are necessary to maintain immunity. There is some risk of tumour formation at the vaccination site.
The low incidence of FeLV in New Zealand means that vaccination is not recommended for many cats that are low risk.

Although vaccination may be helpful in controlling FeLV and preventing infection, it is not 100% reliable and therefore it is important not to deliberately expose a vaccinated cat to FeLV, for example by allowing it to mix or housing it with a known infected cat.

In larger colonies of cats, such as breeding households, it is possible to prevent FeLV infection by blood testing. If all the cats in the house are FeLV negative, and they are kept confined (not allowed to wander freely outside), exposure to the virus can be prevented by ensuring that any new cat coming in to the house is also tested and negative for FeLV. Fortunately, vaccinating a cat does not interfere with the blood test for FeLV.

LIVER DISEASES
The liver is a vital, complex organ which performs a number of crucial functions, principally involved with metabolism and is sometimes termed the "factory of the body" which controls many of the chemical processes necessary for normal bodily function. For example, the liver manufactures many essential substances, such as proteins, bile and blood clotting factors, plays a role in controlling the metabolism and use of food substances - fats, carbohydrates and proteins - as well as removing many waste substances and potentially damaging drugs or chemicals.

Therefore disease problems can affect the liver in many ways and a diverse range of clinical signs can develop.

What signs will you notice in a cat with liver disease?
Some signs raise a strong suspicion of liver disease - most notably (i) jaundice, which appears as yellow discoloration of the skin, eye and mucous membrane, and (ii) ascites, which appears as distension's of the abdomen due to build-up of fluid. These are often accompanied by less specific signs which can be quite variable including lethargy and malaise, fever, changes in appetite, weight loss, vomiting and diarrhoea. These may be the only signs noted in some early or mild cases of liver disease.

How is liver disease recognised?
In mild or early cases of liver disease the signs are often relatively non-specific and further investigations will be necessary to identify its presence. Since the liver is responsible for such a diverse range of metabolic functions there is a wide range of blood and urine laboratory tests which can be used to assess liver disease. These tests may also play a role in diagnosing liver disease as the cause of jaundice and ascites since both these signs may be caused by diseases not involving the liver. X-rays and ultrasound scans may also be of help by showing any changes in the size or appearance of the liver.

Further investigations of liver disease
A wide range of disorders may affect the liver resulting in abnormal liver tests and there can be considerable overlap in the signs that cats affected with these different diseases develop. In some cases a specific diagnosis depends on microscopic examination of a small biopsy of the liver which may be important in deciding on the most appropriate treatment. Only a small fragment of liver is needed for the biopsy and this can be collected using several different approaches. This may involve introducing a biopsy needle through the skin directly into the liver or via an exploratory operation. Which technique is used will depend on a number of factors. In any animal there is always a slight risk associated with anaesthesia/sedation and biopsy. This risk may be slightly increased with some forms of liver disease. Nevertheless the technique can be performed safely in most patients without any significant complications.

Treating liver disease
Specific treatment for the particular liver disease will depend on what liver disease is diagnosed. Some supportive measures may also be recommended in some cases. Since the liver is involved in controlling the use and metabolism of most major food substances, it may be helpful to use a prescription diet which "reduces the load" on the liver. This may have reduced levels of fat and carbohydrate with a controlled level of high quality protein. A special commercial prescription diet may be provided for this purpose. A home-made diet may be suggested based on the following recipe:-

Mix 100 gms braised liver complete with any fat/dripping with two large hard boiled eggs, 2 cups of cooked rice, 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon of calcium carbonate.

Feed up to 150 gms daily depending on size of cat, in several small meals.

Cats with liver disease may require additional vitamins etc. and your veterinary surgeon may recommend a supplement for this purpose.

Specific treatments depend on the type of liver disease present. Some cases require antibiotic therapy, while others respond to cortisone-like drugs.

LOWER URINARY TRACT DISEASE
What is Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease?
In cats, diseases of the lower urinary tract (the bladder and urethra) are grouped under the term ‘feline lower urinary tract disease’ (FLUTD). It can be difficult sometimes to distinguish between diseases of the bladder and urethra, and many diseases will affect both structures.

What are the signs of FLUTD?
Typical signs in cats with FLUTD are those of inflammation and irritation of the lower urinary tract. The common signs are therefore:-

• Increased frequency and urgency of urination.
• Difficulty in urinating (spending a long time straining on the litter tray while passing only small quantities of urine).
• The presence of blood in the urine or blood spots in the litter tray.
• Occasionally complete obstruction of the passage of urine (straining persistently without producing any urine).

With the latter sign particularly (straining without the passage of any urine), it is important to seek urgent veterinary attention as complete blockage to the flow of urine can be a life-threatening complication if left untreated. The cat will be hospitilised, placed on intravenous fluids, and have a urianry catheter inserted to relieve the blockage.

What causes FLUTD?

• Severe inflammation of the bladder and/or urethra may be present in some cats without an identifiable underlying cause (so called ‘idiopathic' FLUTD). These cases must be differentiated from other potential causes so that appropriate treatment can be given.
• Urinary crystals may form in the urine as part of the disease complex, and cause the cat much discomfort, or in male cats block the urethra. Certain food types, especially dry foods, can contribute to crystal formation in susceptible cats.
• Stress factors, such as other neighbourhood cats, or moving house, have also been implicated in FLUTD.
• Overweight cats that are reluctant to toilet outside on cold days may also be more likely to suffer from FLUTD.

In some cases, a cat may not respond well to treatment, and further tests may be indicated to rule out other less common causes of FLUTD, which include:

• Urinary calculi (‘bladder stones’)
• Bacterial infection
• Neoplasia (tumours or cancers)
• Anatomical abnormalities of the bladder or urethra
• Urethral plugs (blockage of urethra with a mixture of crystals or small calculi/stones, mucous and inflammatory material)

How is FLUTD diagnosed?
The initial diagnosis of FLUTD is based on the clinical signs of lower urinary tract inflammation. Analysis of a urine sample will confirm the presence of inflammation, blood, or crystals.
Initially, a cat with uncomplicated FLUTD will receive treatment based on the findings from urinalysis.
However, if the signs do not respond to treatment, or if there is recurrence of the clinical signs, further investigation (urine culture, x-rays, ultrasound or blood tests) may be required to identify the underlying cause of the FLUTD.

What is the treatment for FLUTD?
Treatment will depend on the type of FLUTD, and is tailored to the individual cat.
Cases of idiopathic disease may respond to treatment with anti-inflammatory or analgesic (‘pain-relieving’) drugs. It is important to use drugs specifically prescribed by your veterinary surgeon, as many human products are extremely dangerous to use in cats.

Bacterial infections of the lower urinary tract, although uncommon in cats, will usually respond well to antibiotic therapy.
Many dry cat foods should be avoided. Special prescription foods that are low in the minerals that form urinary crystals are often recommended. Some cats have a recurrence of symptoms if they come off this food, and may need long term dietary control.

How can FLUTD be prevented?
Some cats have a single episode of FLUTD and make a full recovery, but for other susceptible cats, recurrence of symptoms may occur at a later time. FLUTD is more common in cats that have a lower water consumption, and in cats that are inactive and obese. All these factors may relate, at least in part, to the frequency with which a cat urinates. Avoidance of obesity and encouraging exercise may be of some help in preventing FLUTD. In susceptible cats, the feeding of tinned rather than dry food, or a special prescription food designed to prevent FLUTD, is recommended.

FLUTD can be an ongoing problem for some cats, but with a good diagnostic work-up, and in some cases urine check ups and long term dietary control, the chances of the disease recurring are minimised.

Our veterinary staff are available to discuss your cat’s health at any time.

MEDICATING
What medicines are available?
Medicine may come in the following formulations:-

1. Tablets.
2. Capsules - powder contained within a dissolvable gelatin container.
3. Powder.
4. Syrups.
5. Injections (insulin only).
6. Enemas/suppositories.

What additional information do I need to know?
1. Your vet will advise you whether it is important that the medication is given with food or on an empty stomach.

2. Always complete any course of treatment that is prescribed and follow the instructions that you are given with respect to the dose and timing of medication.

3. If you are concerned about your cats response to treatment or if any new signs develop then consult your veterinary surgeon as soon as possible. In particular if the cat’s appetite diminishes or vomiting occurs, consult the vet.

4. Do not alter or stop therapy without consulting your veterinary surgeon since this may result in complications.

How can I medicate my cat?
It is important that your cat receives the prescribed medication and this may be achieved by one of the following:

1. The medicine can be mixed with your cats food as long as it is not necessary to give the medicine on an empty stomach. This technique may be unsuccessful if it results in your cat being put off eating its food or if you have any other animals that may eat it. This method is most useful for dosing powders and syrups. Most tablets can be crushed and mixed with food, however some tablets are not designed to be crushed so check with your vet before doing this. This is the least reliable way to medicate your cat.

2. Small tablets may be hidden in a piece of your cats favourite food and offered as a treat. Cheese, butter and pieces of meat are common favourites.

3. In diabetic cats insulin therapy may be needed. This usually involves daily subcutaneous injections of insulin and is a procedure that you will be trained to do if necessary.

4. Oral dosing may be the only technique by which you are able to guarantee successful medication. This usually requires two people with one person holding the cat while the other person administers the treatment. This is the most reliable way to medicate your cat.

If you are having problems then get back to your vet as a matter of urgency as it is very important that medication is continued and given regularly.

Oral dosing of tablets
1. The holder should stand behind the cat and place the palms of their hands on either side of the cats chest, cupping their fingers around the front of this. Since cats will often reach up with their paws when dosed, it is usually necessary to hold the front legs as well. The front legs may be held between the third and fourth fingers whilst still steadying the cat's chest. The holders arms and upper body can be used to enclose the cat so that it is securely immobilised!

2. The doser stands to the side or in front of the cat and places their thumb and third finger of one hand over the angles of the jaw (just below the ears on both sides ). The palm of this hand is rested over the top of the cats head. The tablet is held between the thumb and second fingers of the other hand and the forefinger is placed on the lower jaw over the front incisors. The mouth can then be opened and the tablet dropped at the back of this. It is important that the tablet is placed at the back of the cats mouth since otherwise the cat will be able to spit this out.

Specially designed pill and capsule administration devices are available and your vet may be able to supply you with one of these. These allow the pill to be put at the back of the cats mouth without the risk of being bitten!

Oral dosing of syrups/liquids
This procedure is also best done with two people and the cat may be gently restrained as described above. The doser administers the liquid by a syringe which is gently inserted in the side of the cats mouth with the nozzle placed between the upper and lower teeth. Any liquids should be given slowly to allow time for swallowing. If your cat becomes distressed while this is being done then it is probably not the best way to dose it since the liquid may be inhaled which can cause pneumonia.

MOVING HOUSE
Why do cats try to return to their old house?
Cats are very territorial animals and they may have problems accepting a new house as their home. If the old house is nearby cats may return to their old haunts and try to take up residence with the new people living there. If the move is further away cats may just wander off and get lost.

What can I do to help my cat settle in a new home?

• Before leaving the old house cats should be fitted with an identity collar (elasticated) with the owners name and new address. This should be kept on until cats are fully settled in their new home. An identichip is a useful extra precaution.
• Cats should be transported in a safe well secured container such as a cat basket or cat box so there is no danger of escape.
• On arrival at the new house the cat should be left in its basket until one room has been sorted out and installed with familiar objects. The cat can then be let out but kept confined to this room and a litter tray provided. To help the cat to settle it should be fed with its favourite meal.
• Once the removal men have gone and the house is quiet check that all the doors and windows are closed and allow the cat to explore.
• Cats should be given lots of extra attention, petting and extra food during the period of settling in. The cat should be fed indoors for at least 7-10 days before being let outside.
• Once the cat has begun to accept the house then it can be shown the garden. At first, it should only be let outside before meals so food can be used to lure the cat back inside if it wanders too far. Cats are much more likely to fight in a new territory so careful observation and curfew attention is vital especially in first few weeks.
• Initially the cat should be let out alone only for short periods during the day. It should be hungry so that it will not wander too far and will readily respond to a call when its meal is ready.
• If possible try to avoid having builders working in the house during the initial settling in period. Cats hate this and it will inevitably make readjustment more difficult.

How long will it be before I can safely let my cat outside alone?
This is very variable depending on the disposition of the cat and how much time has been spent on making the cat feel at home; some cats take only a few days to settle down whilst others may take three weeks or more. Outdoor cats with a wide experience of change tend to cope best but even they should be kept in for a week to give them a chance to learn about their new home.

My cat is very nervous. Are there any special precautions I should take?
It may be wise to board particularly nervous cats in a friendly cattery before the packing up of the old house starts and to keep them there until everything is unpacked and positioned in the new house.

My cat keeps returning to our old house. What can I do?
This happens because the bond with the new home is not sufficiently established. Measures must be taken to establish the new home as the source of food and shelter ( in contrast to the old house where these things are denied him). It may take weeks or months before the cat can safely be let out unattended.

Keep the cat indoors at the new house for about a month. Use the guidelines given above to try increase the bond with the new house. It may help to feed the cat small meals several times a day.

When the cat is first let out it should be starved for 12 hours so that it is really hungry. It should be left out for only a short time and then called in and fed. For the first two weeks it should only be let out once a day and be called in after no longer than 30 minutes and fed immediately.

Warn the new occupiers of your old house and discourage them from feeding the cat, talking to the cat or otherwise encouraging it. In some cases active deterrent action can be tried such as turning the cat out and throwing water at it.

Other neighbours, even those who were previously friendly with the cat, should be asked to behave similarly.

As a last resort consider boarding the cat for a few weeks in a cattery as far away as possible from either home to try to scramble its memory of its old home and its homing mechanism.

If all else fails encourage the new owners of your old house or their neighbours to adopt your cat.

My cat never goes outdoors so moving house should be straightforward
Moving house can be just as traumatic for the indoor cat because it involves a complete change of personal territory. Gradual introduction one room at a time with lots of attention will help to reduce the stress of the upheaval.

THOUSANDS of cats are made strays each year through insufficient thought and care - DON'T LET YOUR CAT BE ONE OF THESE!

NASAL DISCHARGE
What causes chronic upper respiratory tract disease?
Chronic upper respiratory tract (URT) disease is a relatively common problem in cats, and can have many causes. The most common form is termed chronic post viral or idiopathic rhinitis. In this condition viral infection (e.g. cat ‘flu - caused by feline herpes virus or feline calici virus) causes the initial mucosal damage; but the chronic signs relate to secondary bacterial infection of the damaged nasal passages. This may then lead on to chronic osteomyelitis of the turbinate bones and cartilage (bacterial infection of the fine bones within the nose).

More unusual causes include:-
1. Fungal infections including cryptococcosis.
2. Inflammation which can result in polyps of inflammatory tissue.
3. Neoplasia (cancer) which can be localised within the nose, or be part of more widespread disease.
4. Physical damage which can result from foreign objects getting stuck up the nose, facial trauma (e.g. from cat bites or car accidents), or be associated with severe dental disease.

What are the clinical signs of chronic URT disease?
The main signs are nasal discharge and difficulty in breathing i.e. chronic ‘snuffles’. The exact nature of the discharge, whether both sides of the nose are affected, and the presence of other clinical signs are dependent on the exact nature of the disease process occurring within the nose, and on the presence of any other illness the cat may have.

In order to determine the extent and nature of the disease it is important that the cat be given a thorough physical examination by a veterinary surgeon. Particular points that the vet will look for include:-

1. The presence of nasal discharge, and whether it is bilateral (affecting both sides of the nose) or unilateral (affecting only one side of the nose). Some diseases tend to show unilateral signs (e.g. foreign bodies, or cancer), while others more often cause bilateral signs (e.g. chronic post viral rhinitis, cryptococcosis). The type of discharge can also be important; whether it is clear, purulent (pus), or blood stained. Although the presence of a discharge can be helpful in making a diagnosis, it can on occasion be misleading.

2. Facial swelling may indicate a more serious underlying problem such as cancer or fungal infections arising within the nasal chambers. Although facial pain is seen rarely, resentment of facial examination is common among cats with URT obstruction, especially those with intranasal foreign bodies, or polyps.

3. Sneezing, difficulty in breathing, noisy breathing and mouth breathing may all be seen, but their presence is usually of little diagnostic value.

4. Examination of the eyes may reveal ocular discharge ‘runny eyes’, usually resulting from tear duct damage associated with previous URT viral disease or post viral conjunctivitis, but occasionally associated with cancer within the nose. Another legacy of URT viral infection can be the development of chronic inflammation of the cornea (the clear front part of the eye).

5. Evidence of painful or infected ears may be associated with inflammatory polyps. Cats with polyps may have problems eating if the polyps are large enough to cause obstruction at the back of the throat, and these cats often have a snoring type of breathing.

6. Cat’s with URT obstruction often have a poor appetite and so experience a degree of weight loss. Marked weight loss is more suggestive of cancer, fungal disease or severe systemic disease.

7. The size and shape of the kidneys may be altered if certain cancers are present.

8. Mild to moderate enlargement of the lymph nodes (glands) at the angle of the jaw is common, resulting from a local inflammatory response. If the lymph nodes become very large, or if lymph nodes elsewhere in the body are also affected, cancer or fungal infections are most likely to be the cause.

Over-interpretation of clinical signs can be very misleading since different diseases can give rise to similar signs. However, a few general rules do apply, e.g. facial deformity (changes in face shape) with associated pain, especially if accompanied by a unilateral nose bleeds or marked lymph node swelling is suggestive of more serious underlying problems such as nasal cancer or fungal disease. Lack of these clinical signs does not rule out these diagnoses as some cases of nasal lymphosarcoma (a common type of cancer) can cause bilateral nasal obstruction and little nasal discharge of any kind. Although post viral rhinitis usually presents as chronic bilateral purulent discharge, it can also result in unilateral discharge, sometimes blood tinged and occasionally with severe nose bleeds after ‘sneezing fits’.

Does the history of the cat make a difference to the likely diagnosis?
Yes. It is very important to know the answers to a number questions relating to the cat’s previous experiences. e.g.

1. Did the cat have an acute URT infection (cat ‘flu) as a kitten? This is the most common initiating cause of chronic rhinitis.
2. Is there any history of facial trauma, dental disease or ear infections?
3. At what age did the cat first develop the clinical signs? The age of onset and speed of onset of clinical signs can often be misleading, but can occasionally be of help in the diagnosis.
4. Has the nasal discharge always been of the same type, consistency and colour, and has it always been unilateral or bilateral? Are the signs progressing, is the cat systemically ill, and has the cat responded to any previous treatments? The answers to these questions may help determine the underlying cause of the problems.

My cat had ‘flu as a kitten and has had ‘snuffles’ ever since, although he is well in himself. Should I ask the vet to find out what is wrong with him?
Arrange for your vet to examine your cat but if chronic post viral rhinitis is believed to be the most likely cause of the patients clinical signs, and the cat is not too distressed by the nasal discharge, it is probably best not to put it through further examinations. Further investigations are generally best left for cats with severe or progressive clinical signs, or those with evidence of generalised disease.

When considering treating cats with severe chronic URT disease it is helpful, (where possible), to differentiate between the possible underlying causes. This allows for the correct treatment to be given and the probable outcome to be discussed. However, since most cases of URT disease will result from chronic post viral damage, it is important to remember that tests may give negative results and the likelihood for full recovery, even with treatment, may be guarded to poor.

What tests can be done to find the cause of the disease?
1. Non-invasive tests, such as haematology, biochemistry and tests for FeLV and FIV may help to determine the extent of systemic disease.
2. Nose and throat swabs may be taken to look for the presence of fungi.
3. For the best hope of finding a diagnosis it is necessary to give the cat a general anaesthetic in order to perform more extensive investigations. These include taking radiographs (X-rays) and examining the nose and mouth. Detailed examination includes looking up the cat’s nose, and examining behind it’s soft palette (the flap of skin at the back of the throat). While examining the nose it is possible to take samples to look for bacteria, fungi, evidence of inflammation or cancer cells. These methods do not allow very good access to the nasal chambers, so it is possible that underlying disease may sometimes be missed. Deep biopsies of the nasal cavity with special forceps are very helpful in obtaining an accurate diagnosis.

Can chronic URT disease be treated?
Yes, but in only some cases is treatment likely to give a long term cure. In most cases the clinical signs can merely be controlled, since the chronically damaged bones cannot be repaired.

Antibiotics can be given to reduce secondary bacterial infection. However to control the clinical signs it is usually necessary to give them for long periods of time or as repeated courses in order to control the clinical signs. Some cases can be permanently cured with long courses of expensive antibiotics. In the remaining cases it is generally hoped that with time the cat, and its owners, will learn to live with the cat’s disease, without the need for repeated courses of antibiotics.

Other treatments that can be considered include drugs to reduce the thickness of the nasal secretions (mucolytics), or treatments to help the cat breath more easily (anti-congestants or steam inhalation). If the cat is severely affected by ‘snuffles’ and is undergoing further investigation, it is possible to therapeutically flush the pus from the nasal passages while the cat is under general anaesthetic. Although this procedure can occasionally give some degree of short term relief, the clinical signs usually return. The most essential aspect of treatment is good nursing care; keeping the cat’s face clean and clear of discharge, and encouraging it to eat by feeding warmed up food that is strong smelling.

Specific treatments can be given where a specific causes have been found, e.g. polyps can be surgically removed, some cancers can be controlled with chemotherapy, and fungal disease can be cured with anti-fungal drugs.

NEUTERING INFORMATION
What is a Cat Neuter?
“Castrating ” or “neutering” a cat involves the complete surgical removal of the testicles.

Benefits of Neutering

• Neutering reduces a cat’s tendency to roam and wander.
• Neutering reduces fighting and aggression with other cats, which often results in severe injury.
• Neutering reduces unwanted urine spraying in and around the home.

Recommended Age for Surgery
The undesirable behaviours mentioned above (urine spraying and fighting) will often develop when the cat reaches puberty, between 5 and 7 months of age.
We recommend neutering your cat from five months of age.

Before the Surgery
When you book your pet in we will give you detailed information so that he is prepared for surgery. This includes no food being offered after eight o’clock the night before surgery and keeping him inside, to reduce the risk of vomiting under anaesthetic.

You will also be given the choice of preanaesthetic blood tests for your cat. A small sample of blood is taken and analysed in our in-clinic laboratory, to ensure your cat is fit to undergo an anaesthetic - in particular kidney and liver function are assessed. In young healthy cats this is rarely a problem, but sometimes we pick up otherwise undetected disease that needs to be discussed with you and treated before surgery.

Surgery
After admission, your cat will receive a full clinical assessment, and blood is taken for preanaesthetic testing if selected. Once the pet is assessed as fit, a sedative is given, before the animal is given a full general anaesthetic, and taken through to our surgery. During the sterile surgery, the pet is monitored at all times by our trained nursing staff.

We are proud of the standard of anaesthetic and surgical care that we maintain at the Kelburn Vet Centre.

Post Surgery
Your cat will be discharged at an appointment on the evening of the surgery, so a vet can talk with you about post-surgical care. Recovery after surgery is rapid in most cases.

Please contact us if you require more information about having your cat neutered, or for a surgical appointment time.

OBESITY
Is feline obesity a problem?
YES - obesity, defined as an excess of body weight of 20% or more, is the most common nutritional disease of domestic cats. Although the frequency varies from one country to the next, we know in some countries that up to 40% of adult cats are obese! Despite these alarming figures, very little is known about the detrimental effects of obesity on feline health. What we do know is that cats that are neutered and live indoors are more likely to be obese. Similarly, male cats are more likely to be obese.

With respect to the detrimental effects on feline health, obesity in the cat is a known risk factor for both diabetes mellitus, lower urinary tract disease and arthritis. In humans, obesity causes an increase in morbidity and mortality at all ages and is associated with diabetes mellitus, certain types of cancer, impaired mobility and arthritis, high blood pressure, heart disease, and other illnesses. Recent studies suggest that heart disease might also occur in obese cats! More work is needed to evaluate this and to determine what other detrimental effects obesity has on cats.

Finally, obesity in cats is associated with hepatic lipidosis. This is a severe form of liver failure in cats. It typically occurs in cats which are obese and have then undergone a brief period of ‘stress’ which causes anorexia. The ‘stress’ may be as simple as a change of house or a change in diet. Hepatic lipidosis used to be an almost universally fatal disease in cats. Fortunately, with improved, aggressive and prolonged therapy about 80% of affected cats can be saved. However, it is because of the risk for this potentially fatal disease that treatment of feline obesity needs to be done cautiously and always under the care of a veterinary surgeon.

What specifically causes obesity in cats and how should it be treated?
Many factors work together to cause obesity in cats, and as mentioned earlier not all of them are clearly understood. Some are probably genetic, while others are clearly related to diet and environment. Also, as mentioned above, neutering increases the risk for obesity in cats.

It is important for the cat owner and veterinary surgeon to keep all these factors in mind when treating the obese individual. Prevention is better than treatment but not always easy. When adult cats are neutered their food needs are decreased, apparently because metabolism becomes ‘more efficient’. Also, cats living indoors are more prone to obesity, perhaps because they eat more out of boredom, but also because they have less opportunity to stay trim through exercise. Remember, everybody should run and play, including cats!

Once a cat becomes obese, the challenge for owner and vet is to promote weight loss safely and then to maintain the optimum weight. In the long run it is better to set realistic goals for weight reduction rather than attempting to force the cat down to a “normal” weight. Usually a 15-20% reduction in weight is a good target that can easily be achieved! Rapid weight loss should be avoided, since it puts the cat at risk for development of severe liver disease, discussed above. And weight that is lost slowly is more likely to stay lost! There are no drugs or magic pills which can be used safely or effectively. Commercial “low-calorie” diets are available from veterinary surgeons and provide the basis for effective weight loss.

However, they are more effective when combined with additional exercise. This also has the advantage of providing more time for interaction between the cat and the human, which we know provides enjoyment and is beneficial for the health of both. With some patience and extra care obese cats can be treated safely and effectively, with the ultimate goal of prolonging a healthy happy life!

A cheaper alternative to commercial low calorie diet is a 33% to 50% reduction in food intake. This should be accompanied by regular weighing of the cat. If the cat fails to lose weight, then the amount of food should be again reduced by 33-50%. If weigh-ins are every 1-2 weeks, the cat is invariably safely losing weight within a month. In cats with access to outdoors it is vital to ensure that the cat does not have access to alternative food sources such as friendly neighbours!

POISONING
It is sometimes said that because cats are fussy eaters they are less easily poisoned than dogs. However, with their curiosity and fastidious grooming, intoxication is not that uncommon. Some factors predispose cats to becoming ill once they have been exposed to a poisonous substance; these include their small body size, their ability to hide so that exposure is not immediately evident, and because cats, being specialist carnivores, lack certain liver enzymes they are unable to decontaminate certain chemicals. It is because of this that when cats become poisoned they are perhaps less likely to recover than dogs.

How can a cat become poisoned?
Cats can be poisoned via a number of routes. Contamination of the digestive system can result from the direct ingestion of a toxic substance, ingestion of poisoned prey, or from grooming contaminated fur. Some toxins can even be absorbed through the skin of the cat, (particularly the paws), and a few can gain entry by inhalation.

What clinical signs might warn me that my cat may have been poisoned?
The clinical signs are very variable and will depending on the particular poison concerned. Many toxins produce gastrointestinal signs (vomiting and diarrhoea), others produce neurological signs (tremors, inco-ordination, seizures, excitability, depression, or coma), respiratory signs (coughing, sneezing, difficulty breathing), skin signs (inflammation, swelling), liver failure (jaundice, vomiting) or kidney failure (increased drinking, inappetence and weight loss). Some toxins act on more than one body system, and so can produce any combination of the above signs. It is important to remember that while most cases of intoxication will cause acute problems, chronic intoxication can also arise, and often proves even more difficult to recognise and treat.

I think my cat has been poisoned, what should I do?
If you suspect your cat may have had access to a poisonous substance, particularly if it is looking at all unwell, it is important that it be taken to a veterinary surgeon as fast as possible. If the cat is fractious it is usually best to wrap it in a towel and put it in a box to prevent it from hurting itself or you. This also prevents the cat from ingesting further coat contamination. It is NOT advisable to try to make the cat vomit, for example by giving salt, washing soda or mustard, since none of these compounds work effectively in cats. It is best to call the veterinary practice to warn them that you are coming and give them time to prepare any treatments your cat may need.

My cat has got something ‘chemical’ on its coat, what should I do?
Only when the contamination is mild and confined to the coat, can the cat may be treated at home. The aim of treatment is to prevent further contamination.

External contamination. The cat's collar should be removed as it may also have been contaminated, and some flea collars contain chemicals which may be harmful to sick cats. To remove chemicals from the coat it is best to clip off contaminated hair and then wash the cat in warm soapy water. It is important to remove as much of the contamination as possible, prior to washing, since the process of washing can increase the absorption of some chemicals. The cat must then be fully dried to prevent it from chilling. Oily material can be removed by rubbing it with clean, warm cooking oil, then wiping it off thoroughly, (i.e. remove oil with oil); however clipping is faster and more efficient.

Internal contamination. If you feel the cat may have ingested ANY toxin it should be taken to the vet. Even if the contamination is confined to the coat, it is important that the cat should be encouraged to drink plenty of water or milk since this will help to wash out any absorbed toxins.

After any exposure to possible poisons it is advisable to keep the cat inside for 24 hours observation. Keep it in a warm, quiet room.

What sort of things can cats be poisoned by?
Many everyday items are potentially hazardous and if you are aware of these you can help to prevent an accident The majority of reported cases involve household chemicals, insecticides (chemicals that kill insects) and rodenticides (chemicals that kill rodents). However, in the majority of cases the nature of the offending compound is unknown, so it is usually necessary to take a general approach to treatment. Even in cases where the toxin can be identified, few specific antidotes are available.

Domestic hazards can be found in the garage (antifreeze, fuels), under the kitchen sink (acids, alkalis, bleach, disinfectants) or in the actual fabric that the house (wood preservatives). Intoxication can result from human medications (aspirin, paracetamol, antidepressants), certain foods (liver, onion, cocoa, too much raw fish), food contaminants (bacteria, fungi) or food additives (propylene glycol). Never give human medications to cats without checking with your veterinary surgeon.

Garden hazards include rodenticides (warfarin and related substances, calciferol, strychnine, bromethalin), herbicides (sodium chlorate, paraquat), e.g. Rat Sak, fungicides (pentachlorophenols PCP), insecticides (pyrethrins, pyrethroids, organophosphates, carbamates, organochlorines), and molluscicides (slug bait - metaldehyde) ‘Defender’. Cats can also become intoxicated by certain plants (mushrooms, marijuana, pine needles) and animals (brown snake, tiger snake, black snake, red back spider).

Endogenous toxins (i.e. those that are produced within the body) include urea in kidney failure and ammonia with congenital porto-systemic shunts (abnormal blood vessels within the liver). While these are not classically considered as poisons, they can cause similar clinical signs.

An important and relatively common cause of poisoning is lead, typically in flaky paints that get into cat’s coats when old houses are being renovated. Signs of poisoning include poor appetite, depression and seizures.

Another important poison for cats is sulphur dioxide, a preservative used for ‘pet mince’ - this destroys the thiamine in the food, resulting in thiamine deficiency. Cats are nervous, have dilated pupils, a wobbly gait and they may progress to having characteristic ‘vestibular seizures’.

PET EUTHANASIA
In some circumstances you may make the decision with your vet to have your pet "put to sleep," or euthanased, such as if your pet has a terminal illness from which he cannot recover or if he has intractable pain.

This will enable your cat or dog to die in peace with dignity and without further suffering. It can be a very hard decision to make, and we are always here to discuss this with you so that you are comfortable with this choice.

What happens when a pet is "put to sleep"?
The vet, with the assistance of a veterinary nurse, gives the cat an intravenous injection of a lethal dose of barbiturates (a strong anaesthetic) usually into a front leg. Sometimes the injection is made into a kidney or the liver. The pet loses consciousness within a few seconds and often gives a last gasp just before it dies. This is a very controlled and painless method of euthanasia. For very nervous animals it is sometimes necessary to give a sedative to calm them prior to euthanasia.

Is it usual for the owner to stay with their pet when it is "put to sleep"?
We can discuss this personal decision with you before time – some owners like to stay and hold their pet during the peaceful procedure, and other owners chose to say goodbye and leave them in the competent hands of our vet and nurse.

Can I have my pet put to sleep at home or is it better to take him to the surgery?
If the euthanasia is scheduled at the clinic, we try to make a time that is quiet and less stressful to the pet and owner, and so that you can spend time with the pet afterwards.

We are also happy to come to your home to put the pet to sleep in their own surroundings. We can discuss a time for this around clinic schedules, and to suit your family arrangements.

What can I do with my pet's remains?
There are three possible choices:-

• home burial
• cremation if the animal is left at the clinic
• individual cremation with return of ashes – we can advise you on this cost.

Grieving for your cat
It is very natural to feel upset and emotional when your pet dies. It will take time to get over your loss, usually 2-3 months. It often helps to talk about your pet's death, and remember what you loved most about your cat.

If you feel you have no-one to talk to about your loss you can contact a grief counselling service.

Helping children to cope
The death of a pet is often a child's first experience of death. Tell them the truth. Encourage them to talk about their feelings and tell them how you feel. Help them to understand that they are not to blame. Talk to them about your cat and concentrate on the good times.

POST-OPERATIVE INSTRUCTIONS
What should I do when my cat arrives home after its operation?
On arriving home you should keep your pet warm and comfortable by providing a soft clean bed, ideally in a quiet and draught free room at approximately 20-22°C. Unless otherwise instructed, your cat should be offered a drink of fresh water. After a few hours a small amount of food may be given. Please keep your cat indoors overnight, or longer if instructed, and allow the use of a litter tray. You should discourage any jumping or activity that will cause excessive stretching of the wound, especially during the first few days post-operatively.

My cat seems very sleepy, is this normal?
Your cat has been given a general anaesthetic and/or a sedative. These drugs can take a number of hours to wear off and may cause some patients to appear slightly drowsy for a day. If you are at all concerned do not hesitate to contact the surgery. Most cats sleep even more than normal in the first week after surgery.

Why has my cats foreleg been clipped?
This is where the anaesthetic or sedative was administered. There may also be a small dressing on the leg; if so this can be removed the following day unless otherwise instructed.

My cat has developed a slight cough since the operation. Is this anything to worry about?
Your cat may have had a tube placed in their trachea (windpipe) during the anaesthetic - this can occasionally cause mild irritation and a slight cough as an after-effect. If so, it will settle down over the next few days, however should it persist then contact the surgery.

What should I do if my cat is licking its wound or chewing the stitches?
It is only natural that your cat may try to clean the operation site, however, if this becomes excessive, then there is a danger of the stitches being pulled out or infection being introduced into the wound. If you have been given an Elizabethan-type collar to prevent the cat chewing then please ensure it is used, otherwise please contact the surgery and ask for one.

Not surprisingly, many cats find these collars strange at first and will attempt to remove them. However, after a short period most animals will settle and tolerate wearing the collar. Once accustomed, it is better to keep the collar on permanently, rather than to take it on and off. Remember - it only takes a few seconds of unobserved chewing for a cat to undo its stitches. If your cat does succeed in removing any of its stitches then please call the surgery as soon as possible.

What should the wound look like, and when should I be concerned?
The wound should normally be clean with the edges together and the skin a normal or slightly reddish/pink colour. In pale skinned cats bruising may be seen around the wound. This may not appear until a few days after the operation, and in some cases can seem excessive in comparison to the size of the incision, however this is due to seepage of blood under the skin edges. In some cases a small amount of blood may seep intermittently from a fresh wound for up to 24 hours, especially if the animal is active.

Please contact the surgery if you see any of the following at the wound:-
1. Continuous seepage or a large quantity of blood.
2. Intermittent blood seepage continuing for more than 24 hours.
3. Any swellings, excessive redness of the skin or discharge.

When do the stitches need removing?
In general most skin stitches (also called sutures) are removed 10-14 days after the operation depending on the type of surgery performed. You will be instructed when is the most appropriate time for your cat.

When can my cat resume a normal active life?
This will depend upon the nature of the operation. In the case of a minor procedure involving a small incision, some restriction of exercise should be maintained until a few days after the skin stitches are removed. However, if major operation has been performed or a large incision is present a longer period of convalescence will be required, which may involve keeping your cat house-bound for a number of weeks.

If you have been given any medication
Please READ THE LABEL CAREFULLY and ensure that all medication is administered as instructed. If you are experiencing any difficulty in dosing your cat please contact the surgery for advice.

PREGNANCY AND PARTURITION
Breeding cats can be an extremely rewarding experience. However, before undertaking a breeding programme it is essential to understand what this involves, from the time of mating to the time of weaning. It is also important to consider the implications of selective breeding, since by replacing natural selection the breeder becomes responsible for the genetic characteristics of the offspring. It is essential to consider each mating carefully to reduce the risk of genetic disorder, since selective breeding can affect any aspect of a cat’s make-up, from its health to its temperament

What happens when my cat comes into “call”?
Queens come into ‘heat’ or ‘call’ (oestrus) many times a year. Each oestrus lasts around one week and if the cat is not mated she will usually return to oestrus 1-2 days to 2 weeks later. This cycle continues for several cycles or until the cat is mated. Exactly when a cat come into oestrus is controlled by the season of the year (day length), the cat’s breed, and body weight. The signs of oestrus in the cat are mainly behavioural. They become very affectionate and vocal, demand attention and roll frequently. When stroked they raise their rear quarters and tread the ground with their back legs. These behavioural changes can confuse the inexperienced owner who may misinterpret them as pain or illness.

What will mating entail?
Queens are reflex ovulators i.e. they ovulate in response to mating. While the timing of mating is not therefore essential, for optimal results it is best to present the queen to the stud (male cat) on the second to third day of oestrus. The queen is normally taken to the stud since males perform more happily in familiar surroundings. Most queens require 3-4 matings within a 24 hour period for ovulation to occur. When mating, the male cat holds the queen’s scruff in his teeth and on his ejaculation the queen cries out, swears and frequently becomes aggressive. This is normal. She will then wash herself, wait a while, then start again. Once ovulation has occurred, the queen will go out of heat in a few days. It should be ensured that the stud cat is clean, healthy and free of FIV, FeLV and Calicivirus infections.

How long will my cat be pregnant?
Pregnancy (gestation) ranges from 60-67 days; usually 63-65 days. The date of breeding should therefore be recorded, and the cat examined by a veterinary surgeon three weeks after mating to confirm pregnancy.

Will my cat’s food supply need to be changed during pregnancy?
During pregnancy the queen’s food consumption will reach 1.5 times her pre-pregnancy level. By the time of weaning it may exceed 2 times the pre-pregnancy level. It will therefore be necessary to increase the number of meals given and/or feed a diet formulated for kittens, since this provides the extra nutrients required for pregnancy and nursing.

Will my cat’s behaviour change during pregnancy?
During pregnancy the cat's behaviour alters little, although some cats become more loving, and a few become aggressive. The cats continue to move freely. During the final week the search for a suitable kittening bed become the dominant drive, and two types of temperament tend to be seen; the independent cats will go to extreme lengths to hide away from human contact, while the dependent cats will go to equal lengths to seek the comfort of its owner and may well choose to kitten on the owner’s bed. Cats should be confined from this time, since when hidden, parturition difficulties may incur unnecessary suffering.

What do I need to prepare before my cat has her kittens?
The kittening bed can take many forms, but a cardboard box lined with newspaper, old sheets or towels is ideal. The kittening area aims to achie